Hardwood Flooring

Installing hardwood flooring...

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How to install hardwood flooring.

Step by step instructions on installing hardwood flooring....

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Hardwood Flooring Installation

 

The sub floor ought to be made of plywood or planks that are a minimum of 5/8 inch thick and in sound condition as a result nails or staples will grab securely. It needs to be moderately smooth and freed from squeaks, new strip flooring could remove a few squeaks, but you can't count on it. An individual layer of ¾ inch plywood over joist spaced 16 inches apart is usually a typical base. Flooring boards must be kept within the room where they are going to be installed to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity. Installing the boards too early may end up in shrinkage and gaps or in boards that swell and buckle. You may require to remove packaging so the wood flooring can breathe. Once all the boards are installed, it will have a week roughly to sand and seal the floor. This will typically involve three passes using a sanding machine, an application of stain and two or three coats of finish. Moldings is usually installed after sanding if they are going to be stained identical color as the floor. Or else, wait to install them until you have completely finish the wood floor.

 

 

Prepare the room for the wood flooring

Remove obstructions and the base shoe or base molding. Cut the door casings to help you slip the new flooring beneath them. Run a trowel over the floor, and take away or drive down every protruding fasteners. Walk over the floor to spot any squeaks, and drive in screws to remove them. Roll 15 pound roofing felt on top of the floor, and cut the felt to fit. Spread it flat, taking away waves and bubbles. Staple it at 12 inch intervals. A roofer's stapler that  drives in the fasteners as rapidly as you can hammer, is easier to utilize than an average stapler. When installing over existing planks or strip flooring (often used in older homes to make the sub floor), it is necessary how the new flooring runs in a new direction. If it doesn't, the new floor will almost without doubt develop ugly waves. Run the new flooring in a different direction(perhaps at a 45 degree angle), or install under layment over the old strip flooring. When installing wood flooring must be well cured and dry, if the boards are just a little green, they'll shrink, creating unsightly gaps. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Installing wood flooring

1. Start your layout on a long wall in probably the most noticeable part of the room. At each end from the wall, measure out the width of a board plus ¼ inch, and make a mark. Snap a chalk line between the two marks. Measure to determine the line is fairly consistent distance from your wall at all points, and make certain the first board will be close enough to the wall for base molding to hide it.

 

 

 

2. Make your cutting station relaxing and straightforward to use. A power miter saw is idea. Designed for persistently smooth cuts, equip your saw with a carbide tipped blade that has at least 20 teeth. At all times let the saw come to full speed before cutting. In addition be certain that the blade stops completely before removing the board.

 

 

3. Select very straight boards for the very first row. Match up the tongue and groove when installing the second and subsequent boards of this row. At the end of the row and only then cut the final board, be sure it falls ½ inch short of the end wall to allow for expansion. Fit the last board in place, with care aligning it with the chalk line. Ensure the joints for tight fit. Drill pilot holds approximately every 12 inches on the face of every board after that, if possible, into the joist below.

 

 

 

 

 

4. Working from one end of the row to the other, drive finish nails into the holes. Use a nail set to drive the nail heads at least ¼ inch below the surface. If a nail just isn't driven deep enough, it's going to rip the sandpaper when you sand the floor.

 

 

 

                        

5. Lay out the following seven or eight rows of boards within the order you wish to install them. Keep in mind the 1 ½ inch rule for staggering joints, and aim for an even distribution of various colors and grain shades in your pieces you select. Having a wood flooring stapler instead of face nailing as soon as the tool will fit. The head of the staple should be sunk slightly into the wood. Be certain that no joint is closer than 1 ½ inches to a joint in either of the two adjoining rows.

 

 

6. At a doorway or an outside corner, most if not the entire cuts will be covered with molding, but the cut must be precise where it meets the jamb. Under cut the door casing, using a bit of new Wood flooring as a guide.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                     

7. You'll likely need to make rip cuts on the final row of strips a table saw works bust for this job.

 

8. Drill holes if you get too near  the wall to use the stapler, and drive in face nails as shown. Employ a pry bar after that wood scraps to pry the boards tight against their neighbors while you drill and drive. Install the base shoe or base molding once the floor is sanded, stain, and finished. Attach all molding by driving nails into the wall only not into the flooring, to permit the flooring to expand and contract with changes in humidity. Great job on your flooring installation.

 

 

 

 

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