New Electrical Circuit. 

Step by step instructions installing a new electrical circuit... 

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 Installing a new electrical circuit

 

Planning is the first step installing a new circuit. Draw a electrical diagram showing the location of

each proposed switch, receptacle, light fixture, and major appliance. Next design the circuit. Keep in

mind That it is unwise to have a single circuit supplying the lights for an entire section or floor of a

house. Try to plan each circuit so an entire area of the home will not be left in the dark if the circuit

fails. All new circuits must conform with the requirements of the National Electrical code (NEC) and

with any additional local requirements. The following NEC minimums cover many of the most

important areas of the house.

 

 

 

 

Kitchen basic wiring

* Must have at least two 20 amp small appliance circuits. No lights fixtures can be connected to these

circuit.

* Small appliance circuits must be spaced no more than 4 feet apart.

* All countertop receptacles must be protected with a ground fault circuit interrupter GFCI

* An island requires at least one GFCI outlet

* Dishwasher and garbage disposals usually require their own 20 amp circuit.

* An electric range requires a 40 amp circuit.

 

 

 

 

Laundry basic wiring

* The washing machine requires a 20 amp circuit

* An electric dryer requires a 30 amp circuit.

 

Bathroom basic wiring

* Must have a 20 amp GFCI protected receptacle circuit.

* Must have lighting controlled by a switch not on the receptacle circuit.

 

Attached garage basic wiring

* Must have at least one lighting outlet and one or more GFI receptacle.

 

Closet basic wiring

Uncover incandescent lights are not allow. Cover ones must be at least 12 inches from stored items.

 

Home wiring

In new construction, all basic wiring is done before the walls, ceiling, and floors are cover. Extending

a circuit in a finish house, however, is a more complicated process. You have to find ways to route

cable behind existing walls, above ceiling, and under floors. Attic floors and basement ceiling are

often easy to access, while fishing cable through walls and between floors may take some time.

 

 

 

 

Attaching cable

In exposed (new) wiring, cable must be stapled with straps every 4 feet and within 12 inches of each

nonmetallic box. When using cable staples, be careful not to staple through or smash the cable. Staple

across the flat face of the cable. Not the side. Use metal plates, as shown below, to protect cable that

is installed less than 1 ¼ inches from the front edge of a stud.

 

1. Shown here are typical routes for running cable through walls and ceiling. To avoid nailing

through the cable once the walls are installed, run the cable through holes drilled through the center

Of the joists. Where cables are closer to the surface, protect them with metal plates made for the

purpose.

 

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Installing a new circuit.

                                                                                                                     

Shut off the power to the box. Before working on the box, work backward from the new electrical

installation. Mount boxes, connect them with cable, and run wiring back to service panel in what the

pros call a home run. Allow yourself plenty of cable for running wires around the perimeter of the

service panel when you install the new breaker. You may have a main disconnect switch, which shuts

off power to the service panel. It may be outdoors near the meter or there may be one in the service

panel. Shut the power off, now there will be no power to the panel.

 

 

1. Run cable into the service panel. Remove a knockout plug at a convenient location. Install a

cable clamp into the knockout hole. Thread the cable through the cable clamp and tighten the clamp.

 

 

2. Connect the grounds and neutrals. Some panels have one bus bar for the neutrals and a

separate bar for the grounds, on other panels you connect both neutrals and grounds to the same

bar. Route the ground wire to an open terminal, cut to fit, poke it into the terminal, and tighten the

set screw, Do the same for the neutral wire, but strip the wire end before inserting.

 

 

3. Hook the hot wire. Route the hot wire to the location of the new breaker and cut to fit, strip ½

inch of insulation, poke the wire into the breaker and tighten the setscrew.

 

 

4. Insert the breaker. Examine nearby breakers to be sure you know how they attach. Push one

side of the breaker fully onto one side of the hot bus bar, then push the other side. The breaker

should be aligned with its neighbors.

 

 

5. Double check that none of the wires crosses a hot bar. Restore power, and test all electrical

outlets that are connected to the new circuit.

 

 

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